|Repacking Your Bearings
sure as you repack your bearings that you keep all the parts
from each wheel separate from the other. If any of your
bearing parts are damaged and you need to replace them, about $100 to do both sides. Be sure to take your old parts with you when you seek replacements for them. Below are brands/numbers others have found and used. Your's may be different.
- Outer bearing assembly: Timken 09067
- Outer bearing race: Timken 09195
- Inner bearing assembly: Timken 15123
- Inner bearing race: Timken 15245
- Inner seal: Chicago Rawhide CR 16811
National 44C265 S6C or GW-240-144-6 or NAPA 16811
- Amy found these worked for her 1976 JS715:
- Western Auto: Auto Extra brand. The SKU is 713602184329 The package says it replaces: FM 442251/SKF 17146.
- Bearing Tips
- How to repack your bearings - with video (thanks Ray & Don)
trailer on a flat level location where ground is firm.
your tires and loosen the lug nuts.
your trailer tongue as far down as it goes.
jack stands under both metal rails behind the tires.
version that will raise 21" is recommended, but not
your jack under one rail and jack up as high as it will go
raise your jackstand up to that level. Do the same
on the opposite side.
you have both wheels well off the ground, raise your trailer
back up to level the trailer, which will raise the
wheels even higher
and allow the axle to drop so wheels may
removing both wheels, but be sure to keep all parts separated, by wheel.
the dustcap. If you have to use channel locks to loosen,
be careful, they may be only plastic!
off the grease to expose the cotter pin.
Straighten it out
and remove it.
remove the bearing nut.
pull the hub towards you, which allows the outer bearing
to move forward. Be careful not to allow the bearing to drop
on the ground.
Push the hub back and remove the bearing and
the hub and place it, backside down, between two pieces of
Using a hammer and a wooden dowel, catch the back
the inner bearing and tap it lightly until both it
and the seal come out.
bearing and seal removed.
as much of the old grease as possible using a rag or paper
place all the removed parts into a can (coffee can works
great) and pour
solvent (gasoline will work, just be
careful!) over them.
Let them sit a few minutes and using
a brush, thoroughly clean all the parts.
you have a compressor, use it to blow out the bearing to
assure all old grease is removed. If you don't have one,
just be sure the grease is gone.
A cleaned bearing!
your inner bearing seal to be sure it shows no damage.
it does, it will have to be replaced.
sides should be clean, with no gouges or scrapes.
cleaning both the inside and the outside of the hub,
some of your grease to grease the inside of the inner hub.
put a walnut-sized lump of grease into the palm of your hand
and work it, from the bottom, into the inner bearings.
grease should be pushing out the top of the bearing when
it is fully greased.
the bearing is fully greased, insert it back into the hub
and then lightly tap the seal back on.
turn the hub over and grease the inside of the outer hub.
cleaning the spindle (where hub was removed from) completely,
place the freshly greased hub back on it.
(repack) the outer bearing the same way you did the inner
and then place it back into the greased outer hub, followed
by the washer.
replace the bearing nut.
the nut all the way down and spin the hub around several times.
Then back the nut off one of the notches in the nut, and replace
the cotter pin. It is probably best to use a new cotter pin, and
not reuse the old one which you removed.
the cleaned dust cap.
the wheel and finger-tighten the nuts.
the trailer by reversing the steps used in raising it.
your lug nuts and you are good to go for another 10,000 miles!