Kroes' 1978 Boler Project
As she looks, day one - pretty mildewy and dirty
Door side - really grungy
Driver's side - vents are for the range hood, 3-way refrigerator
and the furnace
And from the rear. The window isn't broken. Someone added
tinted film and its all wrinkly. Will be removing it.
Tongue - smaller than 20# propane tank. Most likely old style
Lots of goodies here - some kind of power inverter ???
Came with the bunk beds. Upper bunk to be removed, leaving a "couch" below
Big dinette in the rear - will leave it down as a full time bed.
Have another table option - you'll see it later.
Really mildewed. Neither of the side windows was closed tightly when
I bought it and it had been sitting that way for a number of years.
Nice closet - this is where the other table option comes in
Powered fan in the roof vent and it actually works!
Vent lid is cracked and needs replacing - vent has active wasp nests in it.
Commercial quality Mildew & Mold Remover!
And it works great!
One side is done.
Upper bunk removed. That middle lower section is where a porta-potty went.
You could actually lift the hatch and use it in place. I, however, tossed
Painting the wheels after new tires were installed.
Normally I'd paint the wheels before the tires, but didn't have time.
Nice little ST185-80-13s. $119 out the door for the pair.
The original roof vent. Cover is broken and leaking around the base.
From above. I'd thought a paper wasp nest was there,
but it's been covered
On a Boler, everything is riveted, not screwed. Drilling through the rivet
Done. That is ALL the butyl tape that was left. No wonder it leaked!
I made a 1 1/6" thick by 1 5/8" wide cherry frame for the inside
Siliconed and clamped to the ceiling. This will give me something to screw
vent in from the top. There is no wood framing in the ceiling, just about
1/8" layer of fiberglass. I think the vent will be stronger when I'm done!
Install went smoothly - used butyl tape and stainless steel screws to attach
And, from the inside. This fan has proven to be too noisy. Will be replacing with a Fantastic Fan vent.
Boler, with her original awning, camping in Michigan's UP
After the above camping picture, I parked her under a tree and used her as a guest
house. Three years later and ugh, covered in lichen.
What a mess
It was thickest on the roof. Discovered that soaking it in hot water and letting it sit,
I could scrape it off with a plastic putty knife. That still left stains that had to be scrubbed.
After removing the spare tire. It sat right against the rear fiberglass and rusted where the
rim touched. The rear was actually bowing out a bit from the weight of the tire.
After a lot of scrubbing, the best I could do with the rusted area. I affixed a long
piece of 1x to the inside that the U bolt will go through.
That should alleviate any
further bowing since the weight of the tire is now spread over a larger area.
Getting there on the lichen removal
Cleaned all the extra crap from the tongue and added new safety chains
Now to the inside crud removal - out with the old furnace! I will use an electric space heater.
And the non-working refrigerator. What a mess. Missed seeing two screws holding it
in from the back side. They were buried under years of gunk.
Success involved a sledge hammer from the rear and a couple of helpers
Years of gunk under the fridge cleaned up
Sink and stove top removed. Going to use a camp stove instead.
This is what's left of the very poor condition access door
After scrubbing, painted the lower half pink. Original plan was solid pink.
Really liking it as a two-tone. Plan has changed!
The tail light wells were going to be pink, but saw someone else had painted their's
black and I really liked it. Another plan change!
New LED tail lights and side markers installed. LED is the only way to go, my opinion.
Tongue with the tank removed and new paint
Many other boler owners said to leave the door solid white. That just did not look right to me.
Two toned it to match and I love it!
Then added two strips of a self-adhesive car molding to separate the two colors,
and look good with the belly band. Added a new mini logo above where the
original dealer plate was to left of the door.
Laid out the lower bunk cushions on a sheet of 1/4" plywood and cut around them
Filled in the crack between the two cushions with quilt batting
and then stretched another quilt batting around the two
Stretched really heavy denim around both and stapled it to the bottom of the plywood.
Thought being this will make it easier to lift the cushions to access the under bunk storage areas.
Did not take pictures of the interior paint job. Scrubbed the interior well with a bleach
based cleaner to kill any mildew remnants. Then two coats of a water-based KILZ primer.
Two coats of a pale green on the walls and ceiling and two coats of a darker shade
of that green on the cabinets. The cabinets were sanded first to remove gloss.
Here I have replaced the table with 3/4" plywood to take it out to the full width.
I am going to a full-time bed. The solid cherry strip across the front is trim and
also adds strength to the plywood.
New sheet vinyl for the lower floor. Ties in the silver color of the new electric dorm fridge.
Installed. I also removed all the weather stripping from around the door and replaced the
door edge strip with the white one from the Scamp e-store.
Built all new cabinet doors using 1/2" plywood with 1/4" beadboard paneling laminated to it.
I built the new closet door about 6" taller than original to accomodate the mirror.
Had I built the door the original height, would have had to squat to see in the mirror.
Not fun. Also made radiused corners on this and the front and rear storage doors.
The new bed. Curtain covering the under bed storage is hung on a curtain spring.
I made a cherry shelf to cover the plywood jutting into the cabin from the old table hanger.
Curtains are lined with room darkening fabric. This quilt determined all my color choices.
The new kitchen area. Made the drawer much larger. The "drawer" to the left is fake,
just a panel. Not happy with how the two lower cabinet doors look.
The converter juts out from the cabinet, hence the hole cut out in the door. I will be making a
new single door that covers both spaces, and deeper so the converter is hidden.
Will be hinged on the left so not a problem to open slightly to use the outlet when needed.
Replaced original light fixtures with double LED fixtures.
Only used one in the kitchen and one over the couch.
And, the couch, that can also be used as a bed. Cut the fleece blanket to the shape
of the cushion and stitched a pocket in it so it is like a fitted sheet.
Easy to take off and wash and put back on. Another cherry shelf covers the original bunk hanger.
The potty. Made a plywood box that is open on one end. Added eight ball bearings to the
bottom so it rolls in and out. Cut a bucket to fit in the box and use it with garbage
bags and puppy pads. I roll it out at night, with the back against the refrigerator.
The lip holds the toilet seat upright and from falling backwards. Works great.
Spare tire mounted and covered with the decal I designed.
New decals I had made up affixed above the window.
Ready to roll out. I filled in the old access door hole with 1/2" plywood primed and painted.
Should last a long time and I like the look. Was not going to be using the access door anyway.
Hitched to the car and heading to New Hampshire!
And, camping. The awning was made by The Montana Awning Lady. I really love her
double scallops and the polka dots are just perfect for this trailer.
This is how I do my awning ropes. The loop below the spring attaches to the peg.
The spring works very well to keep the awning taut. I did switch to a heftier spring after this pic was taken.
And, my tighteners. Made from wooden dowels.