This is a compilation of sources and resources
for windows--sealing, etc. Use putty tape to reseal between
your window and the Scotty exterior. The below suggestions are
resealing between the window frame and its glass.
Hehr replacement windows
29391 US. Highway 33 West
Elkhart, Indiana 46516
800-551-9149 X 2075 (Collette Crowder Collette@RVGLASS.com)
- Will need window measurements
- Frame is now white (originally milled aluminum)
- Can still get mitered (square) corners
- Will need the part number
- located under the torque tube
- about 32 digits long
- Will need to reuse the original garnish - new windows do not come with garnish
This from Don - 1967/68 windows:
I was able to locate a source for the replacement side window crank arm assemblies: http://www.technologylk.com/produce_view.aspx?&source_ID=nextag&product_ID=7409
This from Tom D. regarding 1969+ window seals:
I have taken all my windows for my '69 Hilander completely apart and re-done them. The seal channel has a crimp on each end. It appears to have been hit with a punch. Take a flat blade screwdriver and GENTLY spread and/or lift up the punched area. The seal should then slide out. With the seal out you can work the punched area to get the new seal in. You can re-punch if you want.
This from Dan M. reqarding 1969+ window seals:
I was told by somebody that the bulb seal that Vintage Trailer Supply sells will replaace the bottom seal on the post 1969 windows. This one:
It looks like the side seals are the same so the bulb seal may work there too, but I don't see anyway to install new side seals without taking the window out and taking the frame apart.
This from Ace G. regarding Dan's comments:
Yes I used this on a 68 front window. Here is the thing the round part is much bigger then the orig stuff. So it a smug fit closing. If you have the window frame all apart you must reseal the bottom center frame screws. I didn't and they leaked there.
Sealing Tips (from Rob Hesselman)
Though not required, it is wise to add a second "layer" of protection to the initial putty tape seal. Some putty tape is still oil based. Not a bad thing as it will stay pliable (= no leaks) for 50+ years "if" air is kept from it. Air will dry the putty and cause shrinkage. Shrinkage means the seal is no longer tight, and water can get in.
Adding a small bead of quality clear sealant (I like clear gutter seal) will keep the putty pliable by blocking contact to the air. (silicone is no longer acceptable because of the difficulty in removing it, there are much better products on the market now, such as Polyurethanes and rubber products.)
The second, and just as important area to address is the screws/screw holes. Screws will loosen until they are no longer tightly seated against the frame. Once in this condition, water can follow the screw threads in and saturate and rot the wood.
It is very easy to cure, by installing the window as shown with putty tape and all screws, then remove two or three screws at a time, and inject a small amount of clear sealer into the hole. Reinstall the screws. Now, if the putty shrinks, the sealer around the threads, and screw head will prevent water intrusion.