|Rubberizing Your Roof
Content thanks to Jahn Chandler
We had some bad spots on our roof, and cannot spare the time or money for a total skin replacement and it is structurally sound after the intensive interior reconstruction I did a couple of years ago.
I though it would be good to document the process to let people know how our roof coating session went. It appears, the day after, cooler, WAY more waterproof, cleaner, newer, and way better looking too. People use this stuff to coat roofs of all kinds, including lining ponds, it holds it's seal under water, also used on boats, is flexible and well know how scotty skin flexes and puts finishes to the test, whilst traveling... so I figured what better thing to put and end to any questions about leaks.
A while back, we took off the side railing on both sides, wire brushed out the old caulking, put new butyl rubber tape on and reapplied them. Before that, I had taken the front and rear seals along the lights line and resealed them with butyl tape and stainless screws, so that part was also done.
We used Liquid Rubber EPDM which comes with the catalyst that has to be mixed into it. It took exactly one gallon (covers 46 square feet on a smooth surface). It took the last drop, but we went heavy.
Prep time (though we had already done a LOT), which was acetone cleaning and a tiny bit of scraping, and painting, not rushing but moving quick, was about 5 hours, with two people. Tools/materials/extras involved, Lasko fan set up on the roof behind us for air (it does have a good amount of fumes), acetone to cleanup the roof, lots of old socks, good pair of dish gloves (acetone will melt through reg rubber gloves), dustpan and hand broom, one thick disposable brush, small nap small roller, artists' brush, tiny artists' brush, and about 5 pairs of latex disposable gloves, paint spinner, good heavy duty drill, pair of shades. Dicor diseal for the seams on top too.
A day later, it's just a little tacky, no bubbling at ALL, and it is so white you cannot look at it w/o sunglasses or everything turns purple. It is REALLY thick, after mixing with the paint spinner (took about 5 minutes, one person pouring it in, while another holds the can and pours in the catalyst , it is thick like cake icing. Some use a small cheap squeegee, I bought one but didn't need it, the roller did just fine. The dicor diseal did well, good to make sure the roller rolls right up to it, same with cutting your edges before you roll, pack it in crevices, then come back and roll on the rest. At the end, we did that rear and front seam, I used a smallER artists' brush to gob it in and it didn't really run either... where Kat followed behind me and made a nice line where our regular paint will meet it when we finally paint the lower body.
We had a storm the next day and it passed the leak test.