| Nancy Kroes' Scotty 7 - a 1959 Rear Door Scotty Rebuild
Finally! I've wanted one of these since I saw Kevin Helwig's
in Arkansas in 2006. Bought it sight unseen over the telephone, which I would normally not do, but did this time because these come along so seldom.
See also: Page Two, Page Three, Page Four
Side skin pulling away - will be strapping it together for its ride back to MI
Doesn't have the teardrop wheel cut-out
This side isn't bad
Hope I can find a bumper for it! I have one off my old VW - maybe it will fit.
Wow, it has a screen door. I wasn't expecting that!
Close-up of the front damage
Yup - its rotted all right!
Some odd screw holes back here.
Not the logo I'd expect to see on a '59
Looks like my dad will be busy with his welder again.
Needs a new coupler and a tongue jack.
Skin not bad - window looks good
Window looks good
This window looks good too
Roof doesn't look too bad
Round taillights - appear to be original
Look original - not seeing any teardrop shape light signs
Floor looks solid - around door not too bad
Looks like it had a dinette in front - that's a surprise was expecting a couch
Lots of rot here
Still has kitchen components although missing the icebox
Oh my - wiring looks like a disaster waiting to happen
All strapped up and ready to head to MI (from MA)
Back home in MI - good thing it was strapped; would have lost both sides
Also, be sure you have a *new* roll of duct tape - mine was old and
I had to stop at every service plaza between NY and MI to retape!
Even the back started coming apart
Hope I can bend that crease out - lost the wheel well trim
See how far the front pulled away from the floor?
Comparing the front profile to a 1961 13' Front Kitchen -
looks the same to me!
Back profile - note how they pieced the siding on the RD
Slight differences - note where roof skin starts on the RD -
above the window. There is only one roof seam, not two
The vintage full hub caps that were on it.
I've been told they're off a Rambler - so appropriate, both the "R" and
the Rambler, since this little guy is going to be doing a lot of "rambling"
Up on jackstands with wheels removed.
Door is not salvagable - looks like it had a round door knob at one time
and now has a Bargman L66
The ugly stripes have been removed.
An old hair dryer and a razor worked great.
That silver paper is all there was for "insulation"!
Paper removed. Bottom 5" are completely rotted away
Plywood removed. Nasty.
Not sure what that loose piece of 2x2 is for - its just sitting on the floor.
The other side of the rear.
My dad, coming in to inspect. Making sure I'm actually working
on the trailer, since I moved his lawn tools out of his garage to have
room to work on it inside - including his tractor!
Yup, I'm working on it. Rear is removed!
Side skin removed - front of the normal door side
Lower front - normal door side
Skin on the driver's side removed
Front corner, driver's side
Roof seam is covered in what appears to have been that aluminum in a tube stuff
Roof seam - skin removed
Roof seam - skin removed.
Will be making my sides 3/4" smaller around the sides and top
to use the same construction method used in the 1969 Scotty.
Just don't think 1/4" of plywood is a strong enough roof support.
Closet overhangs the dropdown by a good inch.
My new closet won't overhang at all.
Kitchen overhangs the dropdown by about 2".
New cabinet won't overhang at all. This will give me a 3" wider passage.
Doesn't seem like much, but will make the interior more spacious!
The very strange construction method used by Serro in the kitchen.
I think I can do better!
After about 1 1/2 hours, the front is off and the old dinette removed!
Done for Saturday, 11/29/08.
Sunday, 11/30/08 - Mabel came down and inspected...
One side removed. Actually, this side just fell off
as soon as I finished detaching the kitchenette!
Final side removed - lots and lots of bolts holding the floor to the frame.
My '69 had only 8, one at each corner and 4 in the dropdown.
This one had 14 - 8 on the frame and 6 on the dropdown.
All had to be cut off with a pneumatic cutting wheel. Ugh.
Couldn't get the pneumatic cutting wheel under the dropdown,
so resorted to using a round cutting bit in a 1/2" drill motor
and cutting around the head.
All the pieces and parts - sides are a mess.
May have to use the skin for the patterns for the new sides.
Done for Sunday, 11/30/08
Stopped by one evening this week and cut off the
remaining two bolts holding the floor down
Leaving it like this until I get the wheel wells off
Wheels wells are stapled on to the underside of the floor
And, corners are in fact under some of the 2x2 framing
Both off, without a huge amount of effort.
Insides will be Herculinered and outsides will be POR15'd
Floor moved to the side so it can be easily used as a pattern
The frame - bared at last
Used PB Blaster on the nuts holding the axle on Friday night.
Today, Sunday, they came off fairly easily.
Will be ordering and using the same axle Jerry M. did...
My axle measurements
The second measurement. This is the "outside frame" measurement
required by the axle company. In my case, I ordered a 48 1/2" axle.
No pics, but got about 1/2 of the top side
of the frame power wirebrushed
before the back went out. So, no back, done for today (12/07/08)
New axle arrived!
Ordered from Texas Tuesday morning, 12/09.
Delivered to Michigan Friday morning, 12/12.
This is a custom build to, to my size, not an off the shelf purchase.
Very heavy and very nicely done.
And, here is where you can make an adjustment to affect the height
of the ride. Loosen nut, adjust, tighten. Great feature!
12/27/08 - oh no!
When I arrived today, found out my Scotty area had been taken over by
my brother - up from SC and making new doors for his house!
After I cleared his stuff away (and let him use my saw horses),
finished power wirebrushing and cleaning the top side of the frame
and got it POR15'd. Stopped back by about 4 hours later to check it
and it was dry and looks great! Stuff goes on very nicely. I was worried
about it after reading all their instructions for using it.
Flipped the frame over so the bottom side was now topside.
In power wire-brushing, discovered these rust-through holes in the tongue.
Getting the new axle ready for POR15.
What a mess, trying to get the shipping labels off!
But to POR15, must be perfectly clean!
Success with the axle!
Two coats of POR15 now on the axle and the bottom of the frame.
12/30 - will flip the frame again to second coat the top of the frame.
Then, can start the new floor and the new coupler and tongue jack to install
Discovered the floor of this Scotty is 2 4' wide pieces of plywood + 4 1/4"
New floor is all cut - used 3/4" (actual 11/16") tongue & groove underlayment.
Cut the back sheet 3 1/2" narrower than 48 so the front piece, originally 4
could be that much wider and have more support
from the beams below.
While I was cutting the new floor, my dad continued working on removing the
old coupler and readying the tongue for a new jack. This was one of the
Serro Scottys that originally had had an old car jack, missing when I got
Coupler head is off and sides are ready to be ground off.
Hole for new jack is readied and preparing the new steel to be welded on.
New steel was necessary to cover some rust-out. Everyone should check
the lower side of their tongues - don't want an accident
like member Lissa had!
Ready to weld on new coupler - using Arc welder for this
Welding coupler to frame and then new steel will be welded on
Welding done (not cleaned up yet)
A couple of Mabel's new lithium ion drills - coming in handy working on the
And, the drop-down is assembled. Thinking I might add an
aluminum corner all the way around the bottom edge.
Gluing up the t&g plywood turned out to be a 4-person job!
Niece Emily (she did our new logo) and my dad...
And Em's boyfriend Jeremie (and me too of course!)
We used 4 9' long clamps - 2 across the top and 2 across the bottom.
Jeremie used Mabel's new 12 volt Ryobi circular saw to cut
out the wheel well and drop-down floor openings. It worked great!
As did the 12 volt Ryobi reciprocating saw to clean out the corners
that the circular saw couldn't get
Framing attached to the underside of the new floor
And on the frame - IT FITS! Drop-down floor is installed
Done with the original floor - Jeremie uses a corded reciprocating saw
to cut it into manageable pieces that get tossed (for now) in the utility
Tongue with its new 2" coupler and jack get a first coat of POR15
And, the new marker lights I just scored on Ebay for the Rear Door.
The back "wings" are stainless steel.
New axle is installed. Loving this axle, so nice and clean.
Painted it with 2 coats of POR15. More about the axle...
Loosen that nut on the right and easily adjust your ride height!
Tongue/jack/coupler after 2 coats of POR15 and 1 coat of POR overcoat
since POR15 will turn gray when exposed to UV rays. Not overcoating
the frame that will be under the trailer, just the tongue/jack/coupler!
More about POR15...
The underside of the floor after one coat of Herculiner.
And after the second & final coat. Looks great and very well sealed!
Close-up - still wet
Wheel wells, cleaned out, resprayed with truck bed liner in a can
and attached to the floor
Adjusting the new axle by approximately 30 degrees.
Remove the bolt, pull off, make adjustment, push on and put the bolt back.
Way way easier than cutting the weld on the Scotty axle spring,
tightening it and rewelding it!
Adjusting for 30 degrees
Drilling up from beneath for attaching the floor
Countersinking the stainless steel carriage bolt heads that are holding
the floor to the frame. Don't want lumps in the new floorting!
Painting the wheel wells with POR15
How nice does that look!
And from the rear.
Plan now is to use filler on the floor and sand it smooth and
then, it will get two coats of weather-beater exterior enamel.
Found this cute little organizer at Harbor Freight for $4. Perfect for organizing
all the stainless steel screws used in putting a Scotty back together.
New tires/wheels installed - went on easy with the 30 degree axle drop!
The white spots on the floor are filler in the screw insets.
A whopping 10 1/2" of clearance beneath the drop-down!
Two coats of exterior 15-year paint
The 1/2 plywood for the first side is biscuited & glued up
And, the 1/4" oak beadboard is laminated to the 1/2" ply after it dries
Jeremie, a flooring professional, installing the living room/kitchen floor
Cutting out the drop-down
A towel wrapped around a block of wood pushes out the air bubbles
The "bedroom" floor is now installed
This was the best side - the other side was so rotted and so much
missing, it couldn't be used for a pattern for the new side.
The new side cut and being held in place by niece Emily and b/f Jeremie.
To cut this side, had to use the above "best" side as a pattern and
then check it with the skin as well to make sure where to cut. Looks good!
And, the next side 1/2" plywood is biscuited, glued & clamped
Cutting out the final side
Mabel gave it her stamp of approval
Both sides are now stained. I love how the "medium walnut"
Watco Danish Oil makes the grain of the oak beadboard pop!
to page two...