About the NSSO Join the NSSO History of Serro Scotty Resources we have found and used Pictures of Scotty projects Upcoming events and pictures from previous events Monthly newsletters of the NSSO Buy Scotty apparal and more fun stuff Contact Us
Nancy Kroes' 1959 Rear Door Scotty Rebuild

picking up where page 1 ends. Jump to page 3.


Driver's side installed. That weird notch in the rear corners is necessary
because of my opting to use 1969 construction methods and hide the
support framing between inner ply and outer skin.


Passenger side installed


Here's the original rear framing. Kind of sparse.


My new and improved frame! I added sections from top to bottom along
both sides, and a piece along the bottom on both sides as well, using white cedar.


Planing rough sawn oak for the furnishings.


From 1 3/16" thick to 3/4 - ready to use


New wheels and ST tires

 


Machined white cedar for the new wooden rear *door*


Glued up white cedar for the "porch" (folding step). This is sized for the
standard-sized door mat in my theme, which will be stainless steel screwed on.


Using my Grizzly drum sander to sand the "porch" glue-up


Sanding finished!


Using the Kreg jig on cabinet face frames.


Face frame for the bed is done.
Going 4 drawers here, 2 deep and 2 less deep.


The bed face frame & drawer supports are done.
This piece now moves to my dad's shop as he's graciously agreed
to make my drawers for me. Thanks Dad!


All of my new LED lights arrived! Even the license plate light is LED.
The lights all have plugs and are self-grounded. Not sure yet how I'll do that.


A close-up of the license plate light and backer. The backer is powder coated
black and will look nice with the black rims around the LED taillights!


Bedside stand framing is done and awaiting new drawers.
Bottom opening will be a panel - wheel well is behind that spot.


Lower kitchen frame is done and awaiting new drawers


New flooring on the left. New plastic laminate on the right.
Will also be covering all the drawer bottoms using this laminate.
Bought a 4x8' sheet of it - special order at Lowes. It's a Wilsonart product.


My dad is making my drawers and using the drawer bit I bought.
He's got several of them cut out already. He'll cut bottoms to rough
size and then I will laminate the Wilsonart to them. I will also
use a Watco Danish oil to *color* the drawer sides before assembly.


My very cool (we think) cabinet and drawer handles. The faux antlers
will go on the 4 drawers under the bed and the faux twigs will go on
the closet, the bedside stand and the lower kitchen cabinet.


Several of the drawers are done, with their beadboard fronts on them

 


The upper kitchen cabinet is all cut out and almost all assembled.
This is out of number one quality pine and will be distressed and painted.


Ten of the eleven drawers and the bedside stand, after
a coat of Watco Danish Oil in Golden Oak. They have since
received their first coat of satin-finish quick-dry polyurethane


The lower kitchen cabinet and the bed front after a coat of Golden Oak


Since I was so happy with the POR15 on the Scotty frame, I
bought another POR15 product - Metal Mask. This is the door frame
and this product is supposed to give it the look of new metal.


The upper kitchen cabinet after one coat of the base color blue.


Polyurethane is dry - set pieces in place for a dry-fit *and*
to get out of the way while other work continues.


Bedside stand - 2 drawers, and a panel below


Front of bed - 4 drawers, 2 top, less deep than the bottom two.
I think this will be more practical than my previous Scotty where I did 2 deep drawers.


Lower kitchen cabinet and the painted upper cabinet.
The upper left drawer needs tweaking. A false drawer below.
In the middle, 3 drawers, with 2 false drawers below.
And to the right, a .5 cubic foot refrigerator will reside behind a door
and a big drawer is below - also needs tweaking.


Close-up of the upper cabinet.


Looking in from the front. There's a 2" lip on the bottom of the upper cabinet,
which will hide a small modern fluorescent fixture that will be activated with
a light switch to the right (or left, from this view) of the door.


LOTS of under bed storage, which will be accessed from an outside
access door I am adding. There wasn't one originally.


Morticing for the upper cabinet's panel doors


Tenoning for the panel doors


Slots cut and panels dry fitted.


The finished cabinet - with my painted Rear Door/bears camping scenes


Polishing window frames


And eyebrows


The rear. You can see the 3 electrical boxes.
One on top for the light in the kitchen, one on top for the outside light
(which will be powered by a lightswitch) and lower one for the refrigerator.


The window bars received a coat of the POR15 "Metal Mask".


Previous owner had painted the inside of the windows white.


I painted them dark blue using paint custom matched to the floor.

 


Front side of framing for the new closet -
it's resting on the oak beadboard front panel


Starting to glue up the back wall framing for the closet.


As with my drawers, added Formica to the pantry shelves


Door opening is cut


Lots of shiny skin and trim!


Back at home - closet door is cut and glued.
Used two pieces of beadboard, glued back to back.


Door stained


Closet and the rest of the drawers/panels stained

 


Storage shelves added to the closet framing to utilize what is otherwise wasted space.


And, from the backside. The rear wall will of course be behind the shelves.


Refrigerator shelf - w/Formica installed


Refrigerator fits!


It will be hidden behind a door


The fluorescent fixture under the upper cabinet


Rear wall installed as well as all cabinets now installed


Closet is installed


Looking in the "Rear Door"


Closet & bedside stand through the "Rear Door"


The rear wall from the outside with door frame sitting in place


1/8" oak plywood cut and finished for the ceiling and front of the camper


Bed frame finished and installed as is the drawer front frame


And, bed frame as seen from the front


120 wiring done and ready to install breaker box under the bed


Lower driver's side skin installed so I can install the plug outlet
and the outside outlet


Outside outlet installed


New stainless steel power outlet installed


Takes a locking 30 amp plug


Wiring finished and tested


Vintage hammered aluminum porch light works


The under-cabinet light works


And so do all of the outlets - this is the bedside lamp


Bed platform plywood is in place


Outlet covers in place


Definite progress has been made


Running lights are installed and WORK!
I used LED lights - brighter=safer and all of the LED lights
have a discrete ground wire so I ran a ground wire to each light.


Closet door installed with mirror.
Drawer pulls installed


More drawers/pulls installed. The bottom left, and 2 bottom middle
drawers are fakes, just panels, because the wheel well is behind them.


And, another view


I took apart the non-Scotty access door I bought at the rally last summer.
Inside of the door was unpainted aluminum - outside was white. Flipped
the panel around so aluminum would face out. My dad is putting it back
together for me with help from brother-in-law Craig. Thanks guys!


Just needs its locks reinstalled, a hole cut in the Scotty
and it's ready to instal with eyebrow.


Ceiling plywood is on


Ceiling nice and tight against the closet


And the upper kitchen cabinet too


A coat of white exterior paint over the top of the ceiling/front.
Never hurts to seal it up!


And as viewed from the rear


Cutting the white cedar strip glue-up to make the new panel door


Cutting the mortices


Mortices done


Cutting tenons


Tenons done


Inside of door, panels installed. Rest of door will also be stained and poly'd.


Outside of door, painted panels installed.
Rest of door will be painted as well - 2 coats of primer and
2 coats of paint on the panels

Jump to page 3

 

National Serro Scotty Organization | Delton, Michigan 49046